Kakadu

Prior to arriving here we had met a number of people who said they were disappointed by their experience of Kakadu. Can’t understand why, because we had a great time here – it’s just been way too short to see much of what the Park has to offer.

We camped near Yellow Water, one of the best wetland areas in the Park, with absurd numbers of birds around at this time of year. As the Dry continues, a lot of the billabongs disappear, which leads to the birds (and other wildlife) congregating in huge numbers around the remaining sources of water. Magpie geese, egrets, herons, white sea eagles, black bitterns, darters, pelicans, brolgas, jabiru, whistling ducks etc etc. And LOTS of saltwater crocodiles.

We walked down along the water’s edge each evening (but not too close to the water’s edge!), and one morning we went on a dawn cruise in the Billabong and along the Jim Jim and South Alligator Rivers. The cruise was brilliant, beginning a little before dawn with with the full moon setting over the wetlands (after the previous night’s full lunar eclipse). Then out through channels amongst the water lilies and water grasses, a few big old (800 years+) paperbark trees – and masses of wildlife which seemed almost completely oblivious to our presence. Apart from the birds there were about a dozen crocs of various sizes, including a couple basking in the early sunlight with jaws wide open (apparently it stops their brains from getting overheated!) I took 292 photos over the the two hours, and Karen took nearly as many again.

The next day we did the Barrk walk at Nourlangie rock, an enormous and spectacular sandstone massif which includes two of the best (and best-known) rock art sites in Kakadu. The walk takes in both sites at Nourlangie, and in between takes you on a 6-8 hour walk over the top of the Rock. Beautiful walk with a large area of eroded red sandstone pillars on top of the Rock called (a little kitschly) the ‘Enchanted castles’. Whatever the name, it certainly was wonderful walking amongst them, and great views across Kakadu in all directions. The only other hikers we met were Geoff and Cathy, two Park Rangers who were putting up additional track markers due to the number of tourists getting lost along the trail.

Another day we spent about four hours at the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre, learning how to prepare pandanus leaves to weave baskets and mats in the traditional style. Hard work stripping the leaves, preparing yellow, brown, red and pink dyes and doing the actual weaving. I didn’t actually get past the leaf preparation myself (at which I failed miserably) but the experience was really interesting and enjoyable. The class was led by Violet Lawson, an elder of the Murrunbur clan – and a most delightful and knowledgeable person. While I was shredding my fingers on the pandanus Violet prepared billy tea and damper, and cooked up a couple of barramundi on the coals of the fire. Delicious.

On our last night in Kakadu we camped at Ubirr to check some more rock art (in the ‘X-ray’style) and a beautiful sunset viewing spot looking out over the rocky escarpment and the wetlands. The ranger did brief talks on aboriginal kinship structures, rock art styles and the five main habitats of Kakadu. Really interesting. Prior to that we got permits from the Northern Land Council and had a brief foray into Arnhem Land to visit an indigenous art centre at Gunbalunya (Oenpelli).

Now off to Darwin for a few nights. After 28 days, we’re both well and truly into the rhythm of travelling - and looking forward to everything that is to come.